Rested and rejuvenated, I have a quick breakfast in the hotel dining area and after one last travel adventure (don’t ask) meet my fellow travelers at the St. Pierre des Corps train station, bringing rain gear as advised.
We pile into the bus.
We ride to Vouvray, passing lovely vinyards on the way.
First stop a local vinyard in Vouvray, run by a 12th generation vintner, whose young grandson is mischievously running around.
First we have a sparkling white wine, then a dry, then a red desert wine.
How can I describe the wines from this place? Nectar is the term that comes to mind. They are so pure, better than water – they actually taste good for you. After tasting Vouvray wine, I am spoiled for anything else (not that I could afford Vouvray in the US). I would taste the additives right away now.
Our guides have prepared a lovely lunch for us
How can I describe the wines from this place? Nectar is the term that comes to mind. They are so pure, better than water – they actually taste good for you. After tasting Vouvray wine, I am spoiled for anything else (not that I could afford Vouvray in the US). I would taste the additives right away now.
Our guides have prepared a lovely lunch for us
And then we take a tour of the wine cellars.
That ceiling is 500 years old. The most important aspect of a wine cellar (we learn) is the stability of the temperature (13º centigrade and 85% humidity). They have wine casks,
but don’t use them much (can’t remember why). Instead they prefer these tanks.
This vintner’s father had a successful business, but wanted to hand it down to his son. So she went off on her own and started a winery with her husband. Their daughter is also involved now and they are doing well.
Like all French vineyards, this one grows only one kind of grape – chinon – and makes all their wines from that. I learned that many of the California vineyards basically grow filler crops and mix their wines with wines (or grapes) they have imported. Disappointing to learn…
After that, it’s time to get fitted for our bikes. This is the model we'll be riding.
Like all French vineyards, this one grows only one kind of grape – chinon – and makes all their wines from that. I learned that many of the California vineyards basically grow filler crops and mix their wines with wines (or grapes) they have imported. Disappointing to learn…
After that, it’s time to get fitted for our bikes. This is the model we'll be riding.
They are titanium, 10 speeds, very hardy. They feel light and well balanced, (though I still don’t like that bar). We have been asked our heights ahead of time, what kind of handle bars and pedals we prefer. Some people have brought their own pedals. We are issued helmets.
Independent activity is part of the Back Roads experience. Which also makes it kind of "snooze you lose" situation. I first discover this when I run off to use the loo, only to find I’ve missed some technical explanation of our bikes while waiting in line. Hoping it isn’t anything vital.
When I return, I am in time for a brief safety talk about managing traffic in general and roundabouts like this:
Independent activity is part of the Back Roads experience. Which also makes it kind of "snooze you lose" situation. I first discover this when I run off to use the loo, only to find I’ve missed some technical explanation of our bikes while waiting in line. Hoping it isn’t anything vital.
When I return, I am in time for a brief safety talk about managing traffic in general and roundabouts like this:
We are given odometers (I don’t bother setting mine, not realizing how important they are to the instructions), and instructions that look like this. The numbers on the left are the total kilometers, the ones on the right count the kilometers from one place to another.
These get folded in half and go in a water-proof see-through envelope that sits on our handle bars.
At first I tag along with a couple from Seattle. He is a mountain biker who came on this trip at his wife’s urging (he seems a little bored at the biking prospects). They are both total speed demons – they don’t mean to be, they are just used to mountains and today’s terrain is flat and easy for them. It takes some effort for me to keep up with them, but when it comes time to take out our instructions and turn them over, I am too slow for them. I give them freedom to carry on without me, and their silhouettes fade quickly into the distance, as I struggle to get the instructions back into the envelope. So there I am. All the anxieties of travel over, I’m right back where I started navigating on my own. Only now I’m by myself in the French countryside.
To be honest, this doesn’t bother me too much. For one thing, I did not travel to the Loire Valley to turn this trip into a spinning class. I intend to dawdle when I want to, take plenty of photos (who knows when I'll be back?) and if I get lost so be it. Meanwhile, this is the week the sunflowers have chosen to bloom. WOW.
At first I tag along with a couple from Seattle. He is a mountain biker who came on this trip at his wife’s urging (he seems a little bored at the biking prospects). They are both total speed demons – they don’t mean to be, they are just used to mountains and today’s terrain is flat and easy for them. It takes some effort for me to keep up with them, but when it comes time to take out our instructions and turn them over, I am too slow for them. I give them freedom to carry on without me, and their silhouettes fade quickly into the distance, as I struggle to get the instructions back into the envelope. So there I am. All the anxieties of travel over, I’m right back where I started navigating on my own. Only now I’m by myself in the French countryside.
To be honest, this doesn’t bother me too much. For one thing, I did not travel to the Loire Valley to turn this trip into a spinning class. I intend to dawdle when I want to, take plenty of photos (who knows when I'll be back?) and if I get lost so be it. Meanwhile, this is the week the sunflowers have chosen to bloom. WOW.
As I contemplate these spectacular blossoms, I cannot but think that the European painters who painted them, merely painted what they saw (not that I could do it). The blossoms themselves suggested the art.
Yes, I was actually among them! Some of them are as big as my head.
After what seems like a very short ride (21 miles), I arrive at our Hotel: Domaine des Hauts de Loire.
I never required fancy digs, but that’s what’s included in this tour – and I’m not complaining. Another Chambre Superieur (and this time I carry my own luggage), but with beamed ceilings – fabulous!
We all meet at the hotel bar and introduce ourselves to the group one by one. This is a group exclusively of couples. I could feel left out I suppose, but the thing about these couples is that most of them have been together for 20-40 years; any bugs in their relationship have long since been worked out. You know how in any group there is always one person who’s difficult and demands attention? There’s nobody in this group like this (unless it's Yours Truly, a thought I try to keep out of my mind) – we can all relax.
Our dinner is prepared by a 2 Star Michelin Chef
We all meet at the hotel bar and introduce ourselves to the group one by one. This is a group exclusively of couples. I could feel left out I suppose, but the thing about these couples is that most of them have been together for 20-40 years; any bugs in their relationship have long since been worked out. You know how in any group there is always one person who’s difficult and demands attention? There’s nobody in this group like this (unless it's Yours Truly, a thought I try to keep out of my mind) – we can all relax.
Our dinner is prepared by a 2 Star Michelin Chef
That's a parsley mousse, which tastes a lot better than it sounds. Here's dessert:
And here's dessert for celiacs (there's one other among us):
We hit the hay early in preparation for our first full day of riding.
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